I typed this dish up for a couple of friends, and thought locals might like to try it, if they don't already know it. Any other simple favourite pasta dishes? Or is this the wrong place for such a thread? Sorry, if so. Enjoy, if not.

SPAGHETTI CON AGLIO OLIO E PEPERONCINO.

Spaghetti coated with oil, a profusion of garlic, and a hint of chilli pepper is one of Italy’s most universally popular dishes. You’ll find variations served in just about every part of the country, sometimes without the hot peppers, or without the usual parsley; at other times the herb of choice might be basil, mint, oregano or rosemary. I adore this version with a healthy amount of both garlic and hot peppers. It always seems to put me and my guests in a cheery, energetic mood. When preparing this dish at home, be sure to watch the garlic carefully as it cooks. Burnt garlic becomes bitter at once, and turns a sublime dish into one that’s thoroughly indigestible. The trick here is to combine the oil, garlic, and hot pepper in an unheated pan and then heat them together, so the garlic does not have a chance to burn. Likewise, adding a touch of oil at the end helps make for a pasta that is evenly and smoothly coated with sauce. Although you will sometimes
see this dish served with cheese, that’s a mistake: the pasta and sauce are already rich enough, and the cheese is just a lot of lily-gilding!

Sea salt
1 lb dried Italian spaghetti
4 fl oz plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 plump fresh garlic cloves, de-germed and minced
0.5 teaspoon of crushed red peppers (hot red pepper flakes), or to taste
Handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, snipped with scissors


1. In a large pot, bring 10.5 pints of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of salt and the spaghetti, stirring to prevent the pasta from sticking. Cook until tender, or firm to the bite, or al dente. Drain thoroughly.
2. Meanwhile, in an unheated frying pan large enough to hold the pasta later on, combine 4 fl oz of the oil, the garlic, crushed red peppers, and a pinch of salt. Toss to coat the garlic and peppers thoroughly and cook over moderate heat just until the garlic turns golden, but does not burn, 2 to 3 mins.
3. Add the drained pasta to the frying pan, with the sauce. Toss, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, toss thoroughly, and cover. Let rest off the heat for 1 to 2 mins to allow the pasta to absorb the sauce. Add the parsley and toss again. Serve immediately, in shallow soup bowls. (Traditionally, cheese is not served with this dish.

Yield: 6 servings

Wine suggestion: I like a good “daily-drinking” Italian red with this assertive dish, such as Chianti Classico.

From TRATTORIA, by Patricia Wells.